JÄMTLAND TRIANGLE WITH THE FAMILY
In the beginning of the year, my wife asked me what I wanted for my 50th birthday. She had a trip to Norway in mind, but planning a trip without consulting me first, especially regarding vacation time, wasn't easy. After thinking it over, I realized what I truly wanted — for the family to hike the Jämtland Triangle together!
Once I assured her we could stay in mountain lodges and wouldn’t need to camp outdoors, we finally booked our accommodation at Sylarna and Blåhammaren for August. Exciting!
The days leading up to our departure for Storulvån were quite stressful. The storm Hans had swept across Sweden, and the police in Jämtland were advising all hikers to stay home. But after numerous calls to mountain stations, dog kennels, and a lot of deliberation, we managed to postpone our bookings by a day, allowing us to avoid the worst of the storm on our first day.
So, we set off on Thursday, heading towards Blåhammaren. Dark clouds gathered in the distance, but we were fortunate enough to stay mostly dry. This leg of the journey turned out to be my favorite, with its dramatic landscape and streams flowing one after another.
After wading across Ulvåtjärn and hiking 16 kilometers, we finally arrived at Blåhammaren Mountain Station. The station was fully booked by the time we got there, but we checked into our simple yet cozy room. Vera and I decided to hike up to the peak above the station, where we were rewarded with an incredible panoramic view of the majestic mountains surrounding us.
Before dinner, we relaxed in the stunning sauna, with a large round window offering a breathtaking view of the surrounding peaks. In the evening, we enjoyed a three-course meal featuring plenty of delicious local ingredients. The restaurant has a reputation for serving top-notch food—while it wasn’t quite world-class, it was certainly good and the atmosphere was really cozy. We shared tables with other guests, making the whole experience even more enjoyable.
The heavy rain from the days before had left the trail soaking wet, with many of the boardwalks completely submerged. But despite the conditions, we stayed warm and dry—thankfully, I’d made sure to thoroughly waterproof our boots. Halfway to Sylarna, we stopped at the shelter in Enkälen, where we enjoyed our packed sandwiches and sipped on some comforting blueberry soup.
After a few more hours, we finally reached the last climb up to the Sylarnas Mountain Station. By now, our legs were feeling pretty tired, and we were looking forward to a cold beer and a warm sauna. The Syl massif stood majestically before us, its jagged peaks and the glacier in the background creating an impressive sight.
Unlike Blåhammaren's Mountain Station, Sylarnas station is a bit larger and more modern. They serve the food directly from pots on the tables, which I think is a great concept. There was also a variety of other organic delicacies, including smoked reindeer sausage and more.
Both Blåhammaren and Sylarnas Mountain Stations have a strong environmental focus, though it’s hard to ignore the fact that food and laundry are flown in by helicopter on a daily basis. Unfortunately, a recent decision has been made to close down the restaurants at the stations within a few years and limit the number of visitors. We were lucky to complete our hike this year, but hopefully, this decision serves a greater purpose and leads to positive changes for the future.
The final leg back to Storulvån went by quickly.That’s how it often is when you know you’re heading home—you're not quite able to enjoy it in the same way as if you were staying out for another night. Still, it was a beautiful stretch, mostly downhill.
This hike is something I’ll carry with me for a long time, and I think the whole family found it to be an unforgettable experience. Plus, no blisters! Big thanks to Molly for such an amazing gift! Next time, we’ll camp out!
